News Heinz is stirring up anger in Italy with its canned spaghetti carbonara

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Italian chefs are up in arms after the American food group announced that it would be launching a can of the famous national recipe on the British market this month.

Carbonara is no joke. Often the subject of outrageous indignation on the part of even the most culinarily patriotic Italians, the unfortunate tendency of foreigners to reappropriate the Roman recipe in their own sauces has once again caused a scandal in Italy. On Thursday, August 29, the American food company Heinz, famous for its ketchup and baked beans, announced on its British X and Instagram accounts that it would be launching a new product in the UK in September – canned spaghetti carbonara priced at £1.75 (€2.08). For some, of course, the can evokes an industrial nightmare, contrary to the imaginary image of a traditional dish requiring a certain skill in the harmonious assembly of a few carefully chosen ingredients.

The official recipe for pasta alla carbonara includes nothing but egg yolk, pecorino, a sheep's milk cheese, and, with a twist of the pepper mill, slices of dried pig's cheek, guanciale, preserved in their own fat. But not only has Heinz packed its spaghetti in cans, it has also imposed the ever-controversial and degrading partnering of cream with its spaghetti. And, perhaps more seriously, the manufacturer has even replaced guanciale with pancetta, a sausage made from pork belly. Nothing to do, then, with Roman carbonara.

 
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